Luang Prabang 🌊 🏞️ 💦 Rivers, Mountains & Waterfalls

Luang Prabang 🌊 🏞️ 💦 Rivers, Mountains & Waterfalls

Luang Prabang is what happens when history and nature get together and decide to show off.

Ancient temples hum with quiet dignity, the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers weave their way through the landscape like they have somewhere important to be, and mist-draped mountains provide the perfect backdrop for dramatic sunrises.

It’s all very poetic—until a motorbike loaded with improbable cargo whizzes past, reminding you that in Laos chaos is never far behind.

Highlights

• When to Visit North Laos
• Our 7-Day Laos Itinerary & Map
• Getting from the Train Station
• Luang Prabang View Hotel
• Town Center Attractions
• Recommended Restaurants
• The Kuang Si Waterfalls
• Kayaking on the Mekong
• Getting Around Laos by Train
• All Hotel Options in Luang Prabang
• Vientiane 🌸 Tranquility & Culture
• Getting Your Laos Visa
• ATM Machines & Banks

 

When to Visit North Laos

If you check online, you’ll be told that for the most comfortable weather – and ideal conditions for most activities – November to February is the best time to visit northern Laos.

While this may be true for travellers who plan to stay dry, if you’re hoping to swim or do some water activities, then you’ll be sorely disappointed.

Pack Your Woollies!

In January, Luang Prabang is cold! You’re 300 meters above sea level surrounded by mountains, which is picturesque but decidedly chilly at night. You won’t be spending much (if any) time in the swimming pools or rivers.

Just take your cue from the locals – who are walking around in padded jackets.

We’d planned to do a kayaking tour on the Mekong, but were having second thoughts when reality hit home.

While generally comfortable, temperatures in the far north (like Luang Namtha, Phongsaly, or Oudomxay) can drop significantly at night, sometimes even approaching freezing, especially in December and January.

It can also be a popular time for tourists, meaning more crowds.

If ever we visit this area again, it will be in the green/wet season (May to October): While often called the “rainy season,” it’s not necessarily a bad time to visit.

The landscape is incredibly lush and green, waterfalls are at their most spectacular, and there are fewer tourists, leading to potentially better deals on accommodation.

Rain showers are usually short-lived and occur in the late afternoon or evening, allowing for plenty of daytime exploration.

Getting from the Train Station

As with the other major cities and towns in Laos, Luang Prabang’s train station is located a good way out of town – over 15 kms (see the map).

So to get into town from the station, the only practical options are:

• Pre-arranged pickup from your hotel: This is the most expensive option, with hotels charging double or more the going rate, in USD.
• Shared minivan: A shared minivan will take you to a central location, though not directly to your hotel, and costs 40k LAK per person ($2).
• Private minivan: A private minivan will cost anything from 200k to 400k LAK if you negotiate and book it yourself.

We ended up paying 300k LAK ($13) for a private minibus from the train station to our hotel. We arranged this directly with the drivers who were waiting outside the station

Book Your Train Tickets

Luang Prabang View Hotel

We chose the Luang Prabang View hotel based on its 5* credentials and the fact that it has a large outdoor swimming pool 🥶. The hotel is a little way out of town – too far to walk – but offers a complimentary shuttle service that runs to and from the center every hour.

Luang Prabang View is classed as a 5* hotel, but don’t get your expectations up (as we did). The actual standard is less than some other 4* hotels that we checked in Laos.

After arrival, we were placed in an annex building outside the main hotel.

We had a cramped room and en-suite with old, unmatched squeaking wooden furniture. The ancient, tiny TV worked on an aerial signal.

Breakfast was not very extensive, with limited international food options.

The panoramic swimming pool is one of the hotel’s nicest features. However, from December to February you’ll be feeling the goosebumps if you venture to use it.

Finally, on checkout we learned that if you don’t pay your bill by cash (we’re talking millions in the local currency), you are charged an extra 3% for using your credit card.

For our 2-night stay at Luang Prabang View hotel, we paid 5.7 million LAK ($260).

For a minimum 2-night stay Luang Prabang View hotel is now offering free pick up and drop off for both the train station and the airport 😃

Book Luang Prabang View

Town Center Attractions

Luang Prabang town centre was a bit of a disappointment.

A few run-down temples, the ubiquitous night markets, an over-abundance of bars and restaurants, lots of traffic and lots of tourists.

As in Vientiane, the ATMs are hit and miss: We had to try 2 or 3 before we could get any cash.

In the center of town is the Wat Chom Si stupa. Here, you need to pay 30k LAT to buy a ticket for the privilege of walking to the viewing area at the top.

Soviet Union-Era Traces

Everywhere in Laos you’ll see traces of Laos’ historic Big Brother – the Soviet Union.

The hammer and sickle flags are displayed alongside Lao flags, and the young school children all wear the red neck tie, a distinctive symbol of the Young Pioneer organization of the Soviet Union.

Taking into account the fact that to this day Russian tourists do not require a visa for Laos, the massive influence of and cooperation with Russia (and China) is clearly evident.

Down by the Rivers

Walking along the banks where the Mekong and the gentler Nam Khan rivers converge is to witness a peaceful symphony of nature and culture.

The wider, muddy expanse of the Mekong flows with a silent power, contrasting with the narrower, blue waters of the Nam Khan, which winds around the town’s peninsula.

Here, away from the busy high street, traditional wooden boats drift lazily and monks can be seen on their daily alms rounds.

Hotel Deals in Luang Prabang

Recommended Restaurants

Luang Prabang’s culinary scene is a fusion of traditional Lao flavors and a rich French colonial heritage, offering an assortment of dining experiences

Whether you crave the comforting familiarity of sticky rice and spicy laap, the irresistible pleasure of a freshly baked baguette, or adventurous dishes featuring Mekong river fish and foraged jungle herbs, Luang Prabang delivers.

The Tamarind Restaurant

Tamarind is a very popular restaurant, so booking is advised (or just get there before 6 pm).

We paid 720,000 LAK ($34) for their Lao Cuisine Explorer Set for two, including Lau whiskies that tasted more like Dutch Gin (or homebrew). We paid an additional 600,000 LAK ($28) for a bottle of red wine.

Tamarind is off the beaten path, down by the Nam Khan river, and is a lot more peaceful than the restaurants on the main drag.

In Laos, you need to be careful accepting spirits from bars and restaurants. Several people have died from suspected methanol poisoning (notably in in Vang Vieng), as a result of consuming contaminated alcohol.

Viewpoint Restaurant

We’d also recommend the Viewpoint Restaurant as a great choice for a snack or a meal.

This restaurant has a beautiful setting facing the conjunction of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers (you can clearly see the 2 different river colours as the Nam Khan joins the Mekong).

The Viewpoint Restaurant has a reasonably priced menu (e.g, a bottle of Cotes de Rhone for $28).

BOUANG Asian Eatery

For those seeking a vibrant and modern take on Lao and Asian cuisine, BOUANG Asian stands out. Located conveniently on the main street, this popular spot strikes a balance between authentic local flavors and contemporary culinary twists, incorporating fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Here you can expect a colorful and inviting ambience, friendly service, and a menu that ranges from Lao classics like laap and papaya salad to innovative fusion dishes.

The BOUANG restaurant is highly rated on TripAdvisor, and we weren’t disappointed. They offer a good variety of Lau and western foods with reasonable prices.

The Kuang Si Waterfalls

The Kuang Si Waterfalls are the best reason for visiting Luang Prabang.

Surprising large, and set over multiple levels, the falls are fabulously photogenic – if you can get a clear view through the crowds of visitors.

The earlier you get there the better, though the cooler the water will feel if you’re brave enough to take a dip.

We arranged a private trip to the waterfalls from Luang Prabang. This cost 1 million LAK ($43) but included pick up from our hotel and drop off at the train station (normally 300k LAK just for a private drop off).

It took around 50 minutes to reach the falls. Entrance tickets cost 60k LAK for foreigners, including an electric buggy ride to and from the falls. Below the falls you pass through an Asian black bear sanctuary.

The falls themselves speak for themselves. The best we’ve seen anywhere.

You can choose to mount the 550 steps up to the vaunted viewing platform, but be aware that once you reach the top you will be asked to pay another 30k LAK to actually enter the viewing platform – very disingenuous, but at least you’ll have burned off some calories.

Kayaking on the Mekong

Kayaking is an exercise in both serenity and mild peril—depending on how much faith you have in your upper body strength.

The mighty Mekong river, which has been ferrying traders, monks, and the occasional bewildered tourist for centuries, now offers a variety of kayaking experiences ranging from leisurely paddles to adrenaline-fuelled battles against the current.

The kayaking experience itself is precisely what you might expect:

You sit in a kayak. You paddle. The river flows. Occasionally, the sun shines.

Wildlife sightings are touted, though these often manifest as blurry glimpses of riverbanks or the fleeting presence of unidentified avian life.

The scenery is, of course, spectacular, but let’s not pretend that’s the main attraction—it’s the sheer satisfaction of not capsizing that truly makes the experience worthwhile.

If you prefer your adventures with a side of structure, guided tours are available, ensuring that no one accidentally ends up in Cambodia.

Options include half-day excursions along the Nam Ou and Mekong rivers, full-day journeys incorporating stops at Pak Ou Caves, and even multi-day expeditions for those who enjoy prolonged exposure to dampness.

The Namkhan Resort offers kayaking trips along the Nam Khan River, complete with safety equipment and the reassuring presence of an English-speaking guide.

Meanwhile, Mekong Kayaks provide a more immersive experience, with tours that include village home-stays and beach camping – for those who believe that a holiday should involve sleeping on the ground.

The Mekong itself is a study in contrasts—one moment it’s a tranquil expanse of water reflecting the sky, the next it’s a churning force that reminds paddlers why life jackets exist. The river’s currents can be unpredictable, which adds a certain thrill to the experience.

Whether you opt for a structured tour or a solo adventure, the experience is guaranteed to be memorable—if only for the aching arms and the newfound appreciation for dry land.

All in all, this is a satisfying method of passing a few hours. It offers a different perspective of the surrounding landscape, and the gentle exertion can counteract the inevitable overindulgence in local cuisine.

Whether it will etch itself into the annals of your most cherished travel memories remains to be seen.

After Thoughts…

So, Luang Prabang. Another one of those places where the guidebooks gush about ‘serenity’ and ‘spiritual awakening.’

Let’s be honest, it’s a town. With rivers. And mountains. And waterfalls. If you’re into temples, monks, and the kind of peace that makes you want to scream, this might just be your personal nirvana.

For the rest of us, there’s always the Beerlau … 🍺

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