Vientiane, Laos 🌸🍃 Tranquility & Culture in SE Asia
Vientiane, Laos—where tranquility and culture collide in a slow-motion embrace. If you’ve ever dreamed of wandering through temples that seem straight out of a time capsule, dining on local dishes that challenge your culinary courage, and leisurely strolling along the Mekong River as the world rushes by, then Vientiane is your calling.
Dive into this serene chaos and discover the joys of a city that refuses to hurry.
Highlights
- Our 7-Day Laos Itinerary
- Getting Your Laos Visa
- Getting to Laos with AirAsia
- ATM Machines & Banks
- Stay at the Eastin Hotel
- A Stroll Through the City
- Culinary Adventures
- Getting Around Laos by Train
- Book the Eastin Hotel
- All Hotel Options in Vientiane
Getting Your Laos Visa
First things first – most nationalities need a visa to enter Laos. The easiest way is to get a visa online from Lao eVisa.
This costs $31 – but with the service fee and bank charge, mine came to $51. The application process takes 3-4 days, after which they send you an Approval Letter.
You need to present the Approval letter, along with your passport to the Immigration Officer upon arrival.
The validity of this eVisa Approval letter is 60 days after the date of approval, and the stay permit is 30 days after entering Laos. Note this is a single-entry visa.
Alternatively, if you don’t mind a bit of faffing around when you arrive, you can get a visa on arrival for $30-40.
Whatever else you do, DO NOT use iVisa! (find out why here)
Laos ‘spirit house’, central Vientiane
Getting to Laos with AirAsia
We chose AirAsia to fly to Laos from Malaysia.
Big mistake since, although AirAsia provide weekly direct flights to Vientiane, you cannot check-in online. This means you have to endure the chaos and delays of AirAsia’s assisted check-in at the airport.
AirAsia Check-in Chaos
Also when departing from Vientiane airport, though less chaotic, we had to go through the hassle and delays of a manual check in.
Never again.
Currently, AirAsia only runs one direct weekly flight between Kuala Lumpur and Vientiane. Their other flights involve lengthy and frustrating transfers at airports in Thailand or Vietnam. They’re also pretty cheap (beggars can’t be choosers 🥴).
ATM Machines & Banks
The official currency in Laos is the Lao Kip (LAK), and in Laos, cash is king.
There are just so many places where you cannot use your credit/debit card (or places where it may not be accepted).
This means you will need to use the local ATM machines to fund your trip.
The maximum you can withdraw in Laos per transaction is 2,500,000 LAT ($110)
After our near-disastrous experiences in Indonesia, we’re very wary about using standalone ATMs in 3rd-world countries. Ideally, we would choose an ATM located inside a bank, in case the ATM mis-behaves. However it was a Saturday when we arrived in Vientiane, and the banks were closed.
So the only choice we had was to choose: Which ATM to use?
ATM Machines – Vientiane, Laos
The first machine we tried was a LAOVIET bank machine using our Wise card. The machine didn’t give us any cash, but at least (eventually… after about a minute!) it gave us back our card. Following this unsuccessful transaction, Wise froze our account.
I’d read somewhere that the BCEL machines worked with most cards, so we next tried that, using a Revolut card. This transaction was successful.
Our third attempt at the same machine using a (different) Wise card failed. We next tried the Wise card in a JDB machine, and this was successful.
Laos ATM machine madness
All in all, it’s a bit hit and miss. Unwavering persistence is the only option.
Each transaction incurs a variable fee ranging from 30,000 to 40,000 LAT ($1.50-$2.00).
Our Stay at Eastin Hotel
The Eastin is a 4* hotel located on the banks of the Mekong river, 2.5 Kms from the center of town.
We paid $266 for 3 nights in a river-view room, with balcony and breakfast.
The room and hotel were fine, but lacked items to be expected of a 4* hotel (no toothpaste or toothbrushes, and no personal slippers).
The breakfast was exceptional, with a very wide choice of specials and options. Having said that, we both felt ill on the 2nd day after eating breakfast, and suspected the bacon.
They have a bar/restaurant on the roof, but whenever we visited it was far too cold and windy to comfortably use (customer’s wine glasses were blowing off the tables).
Their inhouse restaurant also offers a birthday special – 20% off. What they don’t say is that they charge a 10% service charge plus 10% tax! We actually ended up paying more than our 20% discounted bill (in total, $120 for a below-par meal and wine).
They have an outdoor swimming pool, which is one of the reasons we chose this hotel. However, with just 4 deck beds, you need to get there first if you want to lie by the pool. The pool temperature is pretty fresh in January!
Finally, it was a mistake to use the hotel taxis. They charge $10 from the airport to the hotel (walking distance) and a whopping $30 from the hotel to the train station (normally $10).
Having said all this, the hotel staff were great – friendly and helpful.
Don’t take anything from the mini-bar! We were charged $10 for 2 small kit-kats.
La Seine Hotel
We were drawn to another hotel on the banks of the Mekong river, not far from the Eastin. This is La Seine Hotel.
La Seine Hotel, Vientiane
The Seine is more of a bijou hotel – luxurious, but smaller and more intimate. Its closer to the city center, so involves less walking. Rooms are in a similar price range to the Eastin hotel.
A Stroll Through the City
Vientiane is a relatively easy city to explore on foot.
Our hotel looked out over the Mekong river, a couple of kilometers out from the center of town. This made for pleasant walks in and out of the city along the river promenade.
Walking through Vientiane feels like stepping back in time, with its well-preserved temples, monuments, and colonial architecture. The historical significance of this city is evident everywhere, from the ancient Wat Sisaket to the iconic Patuxai Victory Monument.
Ohlala Bar, Vientiane
Patuxai Victory Monument
Patuxai, meaning Victory Gate, stands as a symbol of Laos’ independence. Inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, this monument offers panoramic views of the city from its observation deck.
The intricate details of the monument’s design reflect the blend of Laotian and French architectural styles. Built between 1957 and 1968. The Patuxai was dedicated to those who fought in the struggle for independence from France.
The Patuxai monument is a good walk north from the center, in a direct line from the Presidential Palace (though this road is no Champs-Élysées).
Patuxai Victory Monument – Vientiane
Pha That Luang Stupa
A good way further out from the centre of Vientiane (4 kms northeast) is Pha That Luang Stupa, a golden symbol of Laos’ national pride and Buddhist faith.
This towering structure gleams under the sunlight, drawing visitors from all over the world to witness its splendor.
Cope Visitor Centre
The Cope Visitor Centre is well-worth the detour. This is a very small building which explains the devastation caused by the cluster weapons dropped on Laos by the USA during the Vietnam war.
To date, Laos remains the most heavily-bombed country in the world, and these UXO are still killing adults and children every year.
Cope Visitor Centre – Vientiane
In front of the Cope Visitor Centre is a sculpture made by local artist in 2008. The sculpture is made from 500Kg of UXO, including cluster bombs, in memory of those who have been injured or who have lost their lives or loved ones.
Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan)
Located 25 kms to the southeast of Vientiane, Buddha Park is a surreal sculpture garden filled with over 200 statues depicting various deities and mythical creatures.
As you wander through the park, the whimsical sculptures and serene surroundings create a sense of peace and relaxation.
To get to the Buddha Park you can take the No.14 bus. It leaves every 15-20 minutes from the Talat Sao bus station in central Vientiane. The bus journey takes around an hour, but if you have the time, it’s considerably cheaper (and more interesting) than taking a taxi or minivan.
Which Wat?
In the heart of Vientiane, deciding which Wat to explore first is like choosing a favorite ice cream flavor—deliciously daunting.
From the golden grandeur of Wat Si Saket with its thousand Buddha statues to the intriguing stories etched in Wat Ho Phra Keo, this Lao capital doesn’t just serve spirituality on a platter, it serves it with a side of history, culture, and a sprinkle of humor.
Wat Si Saket
Wat Si Saket, the oldest temple in Vientiane, is a testament to the city’s rich Buddhist heritage. With its beautiful frescoes and thousands of Buddha statues and images, this temple offers a peaceful sanctuary for both locals and tourists.
Wat Sisaket – Vientiane
Wat Chan
Wat Chan, also known as Wat Chantabuli, is a serene and historic temple located near the Mekong. Originally constructed in the 16th century, it was later restored after being destroyed during an invasion.
The temple features intricate Lao sculptures, a peaceful atmosphere perfect for reflection and meditation, and is conveniently situated near downtown Vientiane.
You can explore the working Buddhist temple for free and enjoy the tranquil setting. It’s a peaceful gem for those looking to experience the spiritual side of Vientiane
Wat Chan – Vientiane
Wat Si Muang
Time to head over to Wat Si Muang, where legend has it, this sacred site was created by a woman who sacrificed herself, resulting in a spiritual hotspot that doubles as the city’s protector.
With its vibrant rituals and a vibe that’s more lively than your typical meditative retreat, Wat Si Muang offers a refreshing twist on temple visits.
Wat Si Muang – Vientiane
Culinary Adventures in Vientiane
Laotian cuisine is an interesting journey for the taste buds, with its unique flavors and local ingredients. Vientiane offers a plethora of dining options, from bustling markets to upscale restaurants, each providing a taste of authentic Lao dishes.
Morning Market (Talat Sao) At Talat Sao Morning Market you can immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere, exploring stalls brimming with fresh produce, local delicacies, and handmade crafts.
The aromas of herbs and spices waft through the air, enticing you to sample dishes like laap, a flavorful minced meat salad, and tam mak hoong, the famous green papaya salad.
Riverside Dining
The Mekong riverside offers a memorable dining experience. The riverside restaurants feature a variety of Lao food, where you can savor dishes like mok pa, steamed fish wrapped in banana leaves, and khao soi, a rich coconut curry noodle soup.
A variety of Lao culinary specialities
Vientiane is a culinary treasure trove blending tradition and creativity. Food enthusiasts will delight in the diversity of dining experiences, from traditional Lao cuisine to innovative gastronomic explorations.
The 3 Merchants Restaurant
For a luxurious treat, 3 Merchants restaurant offers a unique fusion of Asian flavors with impeccable presentation in an elegant setting. This is one of the top restaurants in Vientiane, and their prices reflect this.
Their tasting menu is designed for a table of 2 people or more, and is priced at:
- 1,999,000 LAK per person (€89)
- 2,699,000 LAK with matching wines (€119)
The lunch set menu is a little cheaper, with entrée & main course OR main course & dessert priced at 309,000 LAK (€14).
Whether it’s a special occasion or a night of indulgence, this is a must-visit.
Highly Recommended
For those who crave authenticity, Doi ka Noi is the spot to savor true Lao cuisine. With a menu highlighting local ingredients and traditional recipes, it’s a culinary window into Laos’ rich heritage.
Wine lovers can unwind at That Dam Wine House, where a curated selection of fine wines accompanies delightful tapas, creating a perfect blend for relaxed evenings.
If you’re exploring local flavors, Khambang Lao restaurant is the go-to for dishes that pack bold and authentic tastes—a true homage to Lao cooking.
Café Vanille, Vientiane
For a sweet finale or a light midday retreat, Café Vanille serves up heavenly pastries and aromatic coffee in a cozy atmosphere.
Eat on the Promenade
Closer to the center, the promenade becomes very lively in the evening with restaurants and night markets.
You can get a decent mid-range meal with beers for 2 for around $10-15 (250-300k LAK). A more upscale meal for 2 (with wine) will cost closer to $100.
The Vangthong Evening Food Market (5 to 10pm) attracts locals and tourists looking to enjoy authentic Laotian food at affordable prices. After sunset, the market becomes a hive of activity with dozens of stalls preparing traditional dishes such as bla kan sung (grilled fish), sai oua (Laotian sausage), and bet yang (roasted duck).
… when in Laos
Whether you’re after a lavish meal, authentic Lao tastes, or a quiet coffee break, Vientiane’s dining scene promises a memorable gastronomic journey.
Getting Around Laos by Train
As a result of China’s Road-and-Belt initiative, Laos benefits from a fast, modern and highly efficient train network running between Vientiane and Luang Prabang.
One caveat however is that train tickets are only issued 4 days before departure. The trains also can get fully booked, so you don’t want to wait until the last minute to book a ticket.
You can download an app to book your Lao train tickets, but this only works with Lau phone cards.
We found a good solution to this problem online. You can actually *pre-book* your train tickets well in advance. When the tickets become available (4 days before departure) they are automatically purchased for you, and the boarding card (Q-code) is emailed to you. You pay a bit extra for this service, but for the convenience it’s well worth it.
Using this method, we booked the following trains:
- Vientiane to Luang Prabang – $23 per person
- Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng – $12 per person
- Vang Vieng to Vientiane – $12 per person
The train stations are all identical. Very large, clean and modern.
Getting Around Laos by Train
There are food outlets in the stations where you can buy drinks and snacks, and hot and cold water dispensers if you want to prepare your own.
The train boarding process is fine when boarding from Vientiane (start of the line). It can be a different story if boarding from Luang Prabang or Vang Vieng.
In a word, chaotic.
The problem is that the platform staff fail to exit and board passengers from alternate doors. This means you are engulfed with a horde of panicking, mainly Chinese passengers forcing their way into exit doors while passengers are trying to disembark from the same doors.
Add to this the fact that the platform staff are yelling that the train doors are about to close, and it feels like you’re in a rush for the Titanic lifeboats.
The Beginning of our Journey
Vientiane is most peoples introduction to Laos, and as such it sets the tone for the rest of your journey.
In our case, after just 3 nights in the capital we were next heading north to the rivers, mountains and waterfalls of Luang Prabang and the balloons, paramotors, kayaks and treks of Vang Vieng.
It was going to be an interesting ride.
If you’re interested in Laos, take a look at our other Tropical Travel Plans. You may also like:
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