Escape to Makunudu 🌴 Why Small is Definitely Better in the Maldives
A sudden, inexplicable urge to flee your life and become a tropical hermit is something we’ve all felt, and we’ve finally found the spot to do it.
We recently descended upon Makunudu Island, a speck of dust in the North Malé Atoll of the Maldives. The island is so small you could probably throw a coconut from one side to the other if you had a decent arm.
It’s billed as a “miniature paradise,” which is travel-agent speak for “we’ve successfully hidden the rest of the world from you.”
Highlights
- Welcome to the Neighbourhood 🐠
- ⌚ Where Time is Purely Optional
- Rustic Chic or Castaway Cool?
- The Deep Blue 🦈 Life on the Edge
- The Food, The Booze & The Bill 🥂
- Dinner on your Private Island 🌅
- Maldives All-Inclusive 🍹 Off-Season
- To the Maldives via Sri Lanka
- Book Makunudu Island
- All Hotel Options in the Maldives
- Our Maldives/Sri Lanka Itinerary
- Accessories for the Islands
- Easy-Access Snorkeling Locations
Welcome to the Neighbourhood 🐠
Our journey began with a heroic effort to exhaust the Emirates beverage trolley somewhere between Europe and Cyprus. By the time we hit Dubai for our connection, we weren’t so much “travellers” as “highly flammable cargo.”
We had a few hours to kill in Dubai International, most of which we spent standing in a queue for a toilet cubicle roughly the size of a postage stamp. Trying to navigate a backpack in there after overdoing the courtesy gin is a HIIT workout no one asked for.
We would be returning to Dubai for a proper visit at the end of our trip.
We finally wobbled into Malé around 8 am. The arrivals area was surprisingly civilised—no one tried to sell us a fake watch or a carpet. We joined with a Japanese family, looking like extras from a shipwreck movie, and were marched toward the jetty.
The Makunudu Island Express (a very shiny speedboat) was waiting. We strapped on our life jackets and endured a 55-minute bounce across the turquoise waves and through the islands of the North Male Atoll.
We arrived at Male around 8 am local time. The small airport arrival area was calm and organized. After the small group destined for our island were gathered together (just the two of us with a Japanese couple and their child), we headed for the jetty.
Our speed boat was prepped and waiting. We took our seats, donned our life jackets, and enjoyed the 55-minute ride through the islands of the North Male’ Atoll.
Arrival ⌚ Where Time is Purely Optional
Stepping onto the wooden jetty at Makunudu, we were met with the kind of hospitality that made us wonder if they’d mistaken us for minor royalty.
We were whisked to reception, handed a welcome cocktail that tasted of sunshine and secrets, and given the “briefing” on the island, events and facilities
The most important part? The Time Zone.
Makunudu operates on its own clock, roughly an hour ahead of Malé.
- Why? To squeeze every last drop of daylight out of the sky.
- The Result? Total chronological confusion.
We hadn’t slept for 22 hours because we’d spent the entire flight playing aggressive rounds of Tetris on the in-flight entertainment system. We were, to use the technical term, knackered
… but sleep’s for wimps, right? The warm air, dazzling blue of the sea and sky, and the effects of the cocktail did a lot to revive us.
We were not going to hit the sack anytime soon.
Rustic Chic or Castaway Cool?
The resort is a tiny six-acre plot with just 36 bungalows. We were tucked away on the south-western side, which meant we had our own private slice of sand and a front-row seat for the sunsets.
The rooms are a masterclass in “unplugged” living. We’re talking:
- Open-air garden bathrooms: Showering under the stars with hot and cold desalinated water.
- Zero TV: If you want drama, watch the crabs fight over a piece of seaweed.
- Lush Privacy: You can barely see your neighbours, which is ideal.
We walked in to find a complimentary bottle of wine and a sumptuous bowl of tropical fruit. We felt special. We felt fancy.
We also felt like we were about to turn into human lobsters, so we spent twenty minutes aggressively applying sunblock. Coming from a climate where “summer” is a rainy Tuesday in July, you don’t want to take any chances.
Concessions to the modern age include a mini bar, personal safe, and telephone. For the rest, it’s pure nature with a fresh breeze wafting from the sea and the gentle swaying of coconut palms.
The Deep Blue 🦈 Life on the Edge
We needed to plan our limited stay on Makunudu island – 3 days goes real fast in a place like this.
The first item on our agenda was to get hold of the complimentary snorkeling gear and check out the house reef.
Just a few meters in front of our bungalow, we donned our masks and fins in the shallows, then headed out to the reef drop-off: about 80 meters out.
The visibility was staggering. We’ve seen tap water with more sediment than this ocean. Despite the 2004 tsunami doing its best to wreck the joint, the coral is bouncing back with a vengeance. We saw more tropical fish than a Pixar sequel.
After a few hours swimming around the reef, we tidied up and wandered over to the Reception area.
Our 1st Day’s Routine (The Tough Life)
- 4 PM: Afternoon tea at the Sand Bar. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a bar made of sand. Very literal, these Maldivians. Help yourself to cakes and sandwiches.
- 6 PM: The Night Fishing expedition.
We boarded a traditional dhoni with ten other guests. We were given hooks, bait, and a false sense of confidence. Two hours later? Everyone else was reeling in dinner. We caught precisely zilch.
We’ve decided it was our advanced state of fatigue, certainly not a lack of angling skills 😲. The fish clearly knew we were too tired to put up a fight.
The Food, The Booze, and The Bill 🥂
It was dark when we got back to the island, and we were looking forward to dinner before crashing out in our bungalow to get some truly welcome sleep.
Dinner was an impeccable affair served by Ibrahim, our waiter, who possessed the kind of patience usually reserved for saints. The food was high-quality, the wine flowed, and we eventually crawled into a bed that felt like being hugged by a cloud.
Our second day was mainly devoted to more snorkeling around the island reef. We packed a camera in a watertight sleeve and took underwater pictures and film. We also enjoyed more quality food starting with breakfast in the restaurant, and ending with a barbecue on the beach.
After dinner, we decided to get “cultural.” Once a week, the staff perform Bodu Beru—traditional drumming and dancing.
- The Vibe: Energetic, rhythmic, and hypnotic.
- The Reality: We joined in after several ‘refreshments’ from the bar.
Note to self: Everything is “free” until you check out. We could practically hear our credit card screaming from inside the room safe. Since wine and alcoholic drinks are charged separately, our booze bill was definitely going to sting.
Dinner on your Private Island 🌅
The following day we joined the popular weekly snorkeling trip. This was to a reef about 40 minutes boat-ride away from Makunudu. Here we spent an hour or so in the water, snorkeling with turtles and manta rays.
In the evening we asked the management to arrange a Sandbank Affaire for us. This was our final evening, so we would spend it far out in the ocean on a lonely sandbank. We would be accompanied by just our waiter Ibrahim and a chef, who would serve us a special meal.
They dropped us off on a tiny, lonely sandbank in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Just us, Ibrahim, a chef, and enough steak and lobster to sink a small vessel. It’s the ultimate secluded dining experience.
Why you should visit Makunudu Island:
- Seclusion: It’s quiet enough to hear your own thoughts (which might be a downside, depending on the thoughts).
- Authenticity: It doesn’t feel like a plastic, over-polished mega-resort.
- The Reef: It’s basically a giant aquarium you can swim in.
The Verdict?
We arrived looking like grey, sleep-deprived city dwellers and left with sand in our pockets and a bar bill that suggested we’d hosted a small wedding.
Is it worth it? Absolutely.
There is something deeply satisfying about an island that forces you to slow down, look at a turtle, and realize that your emails can wait.
If you enjoyed Makunudu Island Paradise, check out our unforgettable Sandbank Affaire. You should also take a look at our other Short Breaks & City Stops. You may also like:
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4 Comments
Elmarie
March 26, 2024at 8:24 amWe are 2 elderly ladies flying from Sri Lanka to South Africa early May 24 and would love to make a quick stop in Maldives for 2 nights. Not to expensive. Can you suggest a plan?
SandSpice
March 26, 2024at 11:23 pmGet a return flight from Colombo to Male, and book 2 nights at Bandos, which is about as budget-friendly as you can get. For the best prices, you can even stay on Male without lodging at any of the other islands.
Dame Robyne (Self-appointed)
August 16, 2019at 3:08 pmJust got to win the lottery first, then I’ll be there!
SandSpice
August 16, 2019at 8:48 pm🙂