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In the Footsteps of Jason Bourne

In the Footsteps of Jason Bourne 🕵️ A Journey into Cinematic History

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Some people go on holiday to relax. To lie on a beach, sip something fruity with a tiny umbrella in it, and perhaps read a book. Not us. We’d gone to India, ostensibly to see the sights and soak up the culture, but secretly, we were on a mission. A covert operation, if you will, to retrace the steps of a fictional super-spy, Jason Bourne, around the sun-drenched chaos of Goa.

I mean, who needs a peaceful getaway when you can embark on an immersive cinematic adventure?

Highlights

 

A Mission to Go Off-Grid

Our 31-day jaunt across India’s west coast, which somehow also involved brief stopovers in Rome, Istanbul, and Edinburgh, felt less like a holiday and more like an international espionage training montage.

We’d covered a solid 1,700 kilometres and arrived in South Goa at the beginning of our third week, our meagre €50-a-day budget clinging on for dear life.

Our destination was the famously peaceful Palolem beach in Canacona, a place so laid-back it was practically horizontal. This, we were told, was a sanctuary from the relentless bustle of North Goa, a place for quiet contemplation. It was also the backdrop for a significant portion of a Hollywood blockbuster.

And that is where our inner spies truly came alive.

In the Footsteps of Jason Bourne

Palolem 🏖️ More Than Just a Pretty Beach

The second we set foot on the white sands of Palolem, the location hit us. We’d seen this before.

We were standing on the same beach where, at the start of The Bourne Supremacy, Jason Bourne (a perpetually brooding Matt Damon) and his girlfriend Marie (the wonderfully haunted Franka Potente) were trying to drop off the grid.

It’s the kind of beach paradise you dream of, all swaying palms and gentle waves, but the film’s director, Paul Greengrass, had clearly seen its potential for something more… intense. For a spy on the run, it’s the perfect hiding place—secluded enough to go unnoticed, but with enough public space for a dramatic morning jog.

We’d watched the movie again before we left, of course, taking mental notes. We were forensic in our research. The film shows Bourne running along the shoreline, trying to outrun his past, or maybe just outrun a stray dog.

We did the same, albeit at a far more sedate pace, and without the ominous sense of impending doom. There’s an undeniable thrill in knowing you’re walking where cinematic history was made.

In the Footsteps of Jason Bourne

Watch out for that dog, mate!

And the best part? Bourne’s actual hideaway hut, a rustic little shack that served as his minimalist home, was on this very beach.

We weren’t staying there, mind you; our budget stretched to a slightly less glamorous guesthouse, but the proximity felt like an authentic connection to the Bourne universe. We even saw a stray dog that looked suspiciously like the one that tried to trip him up in the film.

Coincidence? I think not.

After his run, Bourne would head back to his hut, wrestling with the pieces of his fragmented memory and the eternal question: “Who is Jason Bourne? What is Treadstone?” We, on the other hand, would head back to our guesthouse, wrestling with the more mundane question of “What are we having for breakfast?”

The struggles of an international super-spy are, it seems, far removed from the struggles of a budget-conscious traveller.

Palolem Beach, about 3 km from Canacona railway junction in southern Goa.

In the Footsteps of Jason Bourne

Hey! Matt! You”ll need mozzie spray if you’re gonna leave that door open

Hotel Deals in South Goa

A Whistle-Stop Tour of Panjim 🎬 The Art of Disguise

The next phase of our mission took us away from the serene sands of Palolem and into the bustling streets of Panjim (or Panaji, as the locals call it).

In the film, Bourne pops into a nearby market town, where he spots a Westerner who looks “out of place”—a Russian assassin named Kirill (Karl Urban), dispatched to terminate him with extreme prejudice. The clever bit, cinematically speaking, is that this “market town” is actually the Goan capital, Panaji, located miles away from Palolem.

Hollywood magic, eh?

In the Footsteps of Jason Bourne

Kirill on Palolem Beach

We tracked down the famous “telegraph office,” which is actually the Communidade Building on Church Square. It’s an imposing, beautiful building, and standing there, we felt a spark of that same tension from the film. We could almost see Kirill walking out, his face a mask of grim determination.

We, of course, were merely looking for a decent cup of rosy lea and a spot of shade. Our own missions were decidedly less lethal.

The film then takes us on a wonderfully impossible car chase through the old Fontainhas Heritage Precinct and Candolim. Kirill chases Bourne’s Suzuki Gypsy, and the whole thing is a blur of tight corners, narrow streets, and sheer automotive lunacy.

We, naturally, couldn’t recreate this. For one thing, we didn’t have a Suzuki Gypsy. For another, we’d have absolutely annihilated every single market stall and possibly a few innocent passersby.

We settled for walking, which was far less cinematic but also significantly less likely to end with us in an Indian jail.

In the Footsteps of Jason Bourne

Footsteps of Bourne – The ‘Telegraph Office’

The whole Panjim experience was a masterclass in movie production—how to take two distinct locations, miles apart, and edit them into one seamless, action-packed narrative. We  seasoned movie-goers appreciated the sleight of hand.

The streets themselves, with their vibrant colours and the constant hum of life, were a spectacle in their own right. The director captured the “golden light and the cluttered and gently hectic pace of the city” with a kind of poetic realism that only a Hollywood budget can afford.

The Nerul Bridge 🎬 A Bridge Too Far

The climax of Bourne’s time in Goa is, without a doubt, the car crash off the bridge. Kirill, the relentless assassin, manages to snipe Marie, who loses control of their car. It smashes through a guardrail and plunges into the river below. It’s a gut-wrenching scene, and we’d been eager to find the location.

The bridge in question, we discovered, is the Nerul Bridge, just a few kilometres south of Panjim.

In the Footsteps of Jason Bourne

Footsteps of Jason Bourne – The Nerul Bridge

We stood there, leaning on the modern railings, and looked down at the peaceful River Nerul. It felt strange to be at the site of such a traumatic cinematic event.

The production team had apparently set up their headquarters at Sinquerim Beach to shoot these scenes, along with others in the narrow streets of Panjim. They’d then moved south to Canacona and inland for the chase scenes on red dirt roads.

We tried to imagine the chaos, the stunt team, the cameras, and the sheer effort involved in making it look so real. But all we saw was a serene landscape, a quiet river, and a whole lot of traffic. It was the ultimate contrast: the fictionalised violence and the very real, very tranquil beauty of Goa.

 

Get to Goa from Mumbai

Palolem 🕵️ Mission Accomplished

We enjoyed the laid-back lifestyle of Palolem beach so much that we extended our stay. The Bourne adventure had been a fun diversion, a little game we’d played to make the trip feel more… well, more us.

We’d tried out a few different guesthouses, and each one offered its own unique brand of Goan charm, which was a welcome respite before the inevitable stress and chaos of Mumbai that awaited us.

So, whether you’re a hardcore film enthusiast seeking to relive a cinematic classic, or simply a weary traveller in need of a stunning coastal retreat, Palolem Beach offers a unique blend of sun, sand, and an unexpected dose of cinematic intrigue.

Come, live the Bourne adventure on this stunning stretch of Goan coastline and make your own fun memories amidst the echoes of action and mystery. After all, who says you can’t turn a relaxing beach holiday into a mission?

Just be sure to watch out for the stray dogs. 🐾


If you enjoyed In the Footsteps of Jason Bourne, check out India West Coast – Kerala to Goa. You may also like:

 

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India Travel Plan

India Travel Plan 🗺️ West Coast

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Choosing the best dates and flights for a long-haul trip to the tropics involves more than making a quick selection shortly before you leave.

When it comes to finding the best travel opportunities, whether the Seychelles, India or the Caribbean, it pays to start making yours plans well in advance. We started preparing our India travel plan around 4 months before departure.

Highlights

 

Choosing your Airline

The major cost of most trips to the tropics is the airfare. A good way to get the cheapest fares – on the best airlines – is to start searching several months before your trip. Flexibility also helps.

To start with, we had several promising itineraries:

♦  The Caribbean, taking a relocation cruise back to Europe.
♦  The Seychelles (from Rome returning to Paris).
♦  South Africa (via Dublin).
♦  South India (via Istanbul and Edinburgh).

We researched each of these primary destinations in search of the best flights on offer. By best, we don’t necessarily mean the cheapest.

There are some good deals with Air Seychelles, but you’ll get what you pay for. Check out the The World’s Top 100 Airlines and you’ll find Air Seychelles doesn’t even make the list. For long-haul, we’re looking for an airline at least in the top 20, and ideally in the top 5.

This was how we stumbled upon what looked like a great deal – travelling to India with Turkish Airlines (who at the time were ranked ahead of Emirates – they’ve since dropped a little lower in the rankings).

Our India Itinerary

After trying multiple dates and city combinations on the Turkish Airlines website, we assembled a rich itinerary for a visit to India, as follows:

♦  Rome – Istanbul
♦  Istanbul – Mumbai
♦  Mumbai – Edinburgh

Our flight itinerary would span 31 days, primarily in India, but including 3 short city stays in Rome, Istanbul and Edinburgh. Not bad for just €457 per ticket… and flying with one of the top airlines in the world. We booked the flight 4 months before the departure date.

Once the flight was booked there was no going back – the trip became a reality. The flight schedule provided the framework for the rest of the trip: Everything else had to be planned and coordinated accordingly.

Always be Planning…

Recreational travel can mean so much more than just the actual time spent travelling. Before the trip there is the anticipation, the preparation and the expectation. After the trip there is reaction, reflection, compilation and analysis. Over the years, we’ve probably spent as much time planning and recording our adventures as the time spent experiencing our trips.

Although sometimes frustrating, we enjoy these other aspects of our travels. The planning stage is really educational, so we don’t regret the trips we’ve planned which never (…as yet) came to fruition.

Flights, then More Flights

Our itinerary with Turkish Airlines meant we would be flying into and out of Mumbai Airport. We would therefore have 22 days in India starting and ending in Mumbai. On previous trips to India, we have visited the Rajastan area, and Chennai (Madras) down the east coast to Trivandrum.

On this trip we wanted to discover the west coast, between Mumbai and southern Kerala.

 

This is quite a distance to cover in just 22 days (3,400 km there and back again). We therefore decided to take a couple of internal flights to reduce the amount of time required to travel overland – which can be considerable in India.

We booked a domestic flight from Mumbai to Trivandrum, scheduled to depart around 6 hours after our arrival in Mumbai. This had several advantages: Firstly, we wouldn’t have to experience Mumbai twice (on our way in and on our way out)… And, in retrospect, experiencing Mumbai just the once is more than enough.

This also would mean we would get directly to our southern-most destination. From there, it would be (…simply?) a question of travelling slowly back up the coast, through Kerala, Karnatica and Goa to Mumbai.

We booked the domestic flight online with Jet Airways – which was one of the more popular Indian domestic airlines (certainly more popular than Indian Airways, although later unfortunately Jet Airways went bankrupt).

Of course, we were taking a risk that our Turkish Airlines flight wouldn’t be delayed by more than 6 hours. It’s all a trade-off really: We booked early with Jet Airways to get the flight at a decent price – in our case, 4,043 rupees (€54) per person. Wait until you arrive and flights will either be fully booked or will cost twice as much.

Our West-coast India Travel Plan – 2,500 kms in 3 weeks

On arrival in Trivandrum, our plan was to take a taxi down to Kovalam. From there, we would slowly work our way back up north – using buses and trains – as far as Goa.

We would then take another pre-booked Jet Airways flight from Vasco Da Gama airport, Goa to Mumbai. This would be 2 days before our return flight from Mumbai to Edinburgh with Turkish Airlines.

 

Our schedule (over a 3-week period) worked out as follows (see maps):

♦  Mumbai – Kovalam
♦  Kovalam – Varkala
♦  Varkala – Kochi
♦  Kochi – Canacona
♦  Canacona – Agonda
♦  Agonda – Mumbai

 

 

Starting in Rome

Rome was the starting point for our flights with Turkish Airlines. For us, this is a bonus destination to begin our holiday. We planned to spend 2 nights in Rome. Time enough to enjoy some excellent restaurants, with a little extra sight-seeing thrown in.

We budgeted €300 for this section of our trip, including guesthouse, meals and transfers (€150 per day).

India Travel Plan - West Coast

The Roman Forum – 1st stop before India

Hotels in Rome

Rome to Istanbul

Since our Turkish Airlines flight stopped in Istanbul, we planned to spend 2 nights in Sultanahmet in the city center. Time for sight-seeing and shopping (since we’d need some warm leather coats when we returned to Europe via Edinburgh).

We budgeted €200 for this section of our trip, including guesthouse, meals and transfers (€100 per day).

This excludes our shopping for leather goods, of course 😉

India Travel Plan - West Coast

Blue Mosque & Hagia Sophia, Istanbul – 2nd stop before India

Hotel Offers in Istanbul

Istanbul to Mumbai

Since we were not planning to visit Mumbai city until our trip back out, we booked a domestic flight connection from Mumbai to Kovalam (Trivandrum airport). This flight was leaving a few hours after our Turkish Airlines flight was due to arrive.

We were winging it a bit here, assuming that our Turkish Airlines flight wouldn’t be delayed by more than 6 hours.

India Travel Plan - West Coast

Gateway of India & Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai

Hotel Options in Mumbai

Mumbai to Kovalam, Kerala

Once in Kovalam, we planned to spend 3 nights in an inexpensive but well-recommended guesthouse near the beach.

Our budget here, as with all our destinations in India apart from Mumbai, was €50 per day. Of this, we planned to limit our guesthouse costs to maximum €24 per night.

India Travel Plan - West Coast

India Travel Plan – Kovalam Lighthouse Beach

All Hotels in Kovalam

Kovalam to Varkala

Continuing the beach theme…

From Kovalam, we planned to move 55 km up the coast for a 4-night stay in Varkala (still in Kerala). We would be applying the same €50 per day budget here. After this we should be well-acclimatised and sufficiently relaxed.

We would probably travel up to Varkala using the local buses.

India Travel Plan - West Coast

India Travel Plan – Varkala Backwater Rivers

Hotel Deals in Varkala

Varkala to Kochin

From Varkala, we would take either buses or a train to travel the 169 kms up to Kochi. In Fort Kochi, we expected more of a cultural experience, and could possibly try one of the backwater trips. For accommodation, we booked a guesthouse in Fort Kochi for 3 nights.

After that we had a gap in our schedule of 3 days. During this time, we planned to work our way northwards 733 kms up to Canacona in Goa. We already tried booking trains online, without success (most were fully booked 6 weeks before departure!). This was likely to be the ‘messy’ part of our trip: We’d just have to stay patient and be flexible with whatever options presented themselves.

A bit of adventure never hurt anyone, right?

India Travel Plan - West Coast

India Travel Plan – Fort Kochi Spice Shops

Hotels in Kochin

Kochin to Canacona, Goa

Assuming all went well with our travel arrangements, we’d arrive in South Goa at the start of our third week in India. Here, we’d be staying on Palolem beach, Canacona for the first few days.

We chose South Goa because of its reputation as a peaceful laid-back area, unlike some of the beaches in North Goa. Again, the budget remained at €50 per day. We just hoped there would be reasonable access to ATM machines in these areas.

India Travel Plan - West Coast

India Travel Plan – Canacona, Palolem Beach

Hotel Offers in Canacona

Canacona to Agonda

Our second and final location in Goa was Agonda, just 12 kms north of Canacona, and reputedly one of the best beaches in India. This being the case, we planned to stay 4 nights here in a quiet guesthouse.

This would be our last taste of the easy life, before the culture shock that would surely be waiting for us in Mumbai.

India Travel Plan - West Coast

India Travel Plan – Agonda Beach, Goa

Hotels in Agonda

Agonda to Mumbai

Agonda is only 60 kms from Vasco Da Gama airport, where we had pre-booked a flight back up to Mumbai. Our reasoning was that by this time we would have had enough of the local transport on buses and trains.

We were also running out of time, and overland travel in India is subject to long delays or cancellations, as well as being uncomfortable and tedious. It’s 625 kms between Agonda and Mumbai (10 hours by car), with the best of the sightseeing already behind us.

We pre-booked a hotel in the Fort area of Mumbai, with a pickup from the airport. Our plan was to stay just 2 nights so we could visit the Fort area, and maybe do a little shopping before leaving.

India Travel Plan - West Coast

India Travel Plan – The Chaos that is Mumbai

Hotel Options in Mumbai

Mumbai to Edinburgh

The last part of our trip would provide quite a contrast to everything that had gone before. With a change in temperature of around 25°, we’d be spending our last few days in Edinburgh, courtesy of Turkish Airlines.

We would be needing the leathers bought in Istanbul, plus every other item of warm clothing we carried with us.

We budgeted €450 for these last 3 days, including hotel, meals and transfers (€150 per day).

India Travel Plan - West Coast

The Beauty of Scotland: Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Hotel Deals

India Travel Plan – Our Budget

Our budget (over 31 days) was divided into 3 areas, based on two people sharing::

♦  International flights.
♦  Domestic flights and trains
♦  Daily cash allowance for everything else (including accommodation)

International Flights: We booked 2  flights from Malta (our home base) to Rome with Ryanair for €54. Our Turkish Airlines flights (Rome – Istanbul – Mumbai – Edinburgh) cost us €914. Our return flights from Edinburgh to Malta (again with Ryanair) cost €130.

Domestic Flights and Trains: Four weeks before departure we went to the Jet Airways website and booked 2 domestic one-way flights: Mumbai to Trivandrum (8,086 rupees for 2 seats – €112) and Goa to Mumbai (5,112 rupees for 2 seats – €74). We also had to count on 2 train journeys: Varkala to Kochin (approximately 1,750 rupees for 2 seats – €24) and Kochin to Goa (approximately 5,085 rupees for 2 seats – €71). Train fares depend on which class is booked: More on this later.

Daily Cash Allowance: Four to five weeks before departure we went online and booked some of the guesthouses in the places we had decided to visit. Our daily cash budget, including accommodation, was €150 per day in Rome (2 days), €100 per day in Istanbul (2 days), €50 per day in India (23 days), and €150 per day in Edinburgh (3 days).

We therefore calculated our combined cash requirement as €2,100 for 30 days (€1,050 per person).

The estimated budget for our entire trip came to a total of €3,479. The only other cost not accounted for was our holiday insurance (€109). Adding this in makes a grand total of €3,588 (€1,794 per person).

India Travel Plan: How it Played Out

This, then, was our plan. Quite an eclectic mix of destinations and cultures. Our itinerary was pretty well worked out, with some flexibility around halfway through. We traveled from February through to the middle of March, covering just over 20,000 kms.

So how did we actually get on?

Read the articles 

Check out our related articles. We discovered plenty of useful and current information on the practicalities of travelling around India: Guesthouse recommendations, places to avoid, overland travel tips and some great places to eat.

It was a bumpy ride, but well worth the admission price.


If you enjoyed our India Travel Plan, check out our other Tropical Travel Plans. You may also like:

 

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