One of the nicest beaches on Pulau Tioman is Juara beach on the northern coast. There are rivers at both ends of Juara beach. On the northernmost river you can hire a kayak and navigate your way a short distance upriver into the Tioman rainforest.
Just before the river at the southern end of Juara beach is the Juara Turtle Project. This is a voluntary organization set up to help protect sea turtles, their nests and eggs. Staffed mainly by young foreigners taking time out from college to learn about the issues, they accept donations from interested tourists.
It’s easy to mistake this place for a bungalow park or restaurant as there are several young people hanging about (this is where the staff eat and sleep). It is however a private area, and you need to make a donation if you want to visit.
Beyond this area, you reach a river flowing into the sea from the rainforest. At its narrowest point close to the sea, you can wade across it to the jungle on the other side. If you do this, though, be prepared for some thick jungle before reaching the path up into the mountain.
We tried this, and found a deserted cabin about 30 meters into the jungle. It is apparently owned by a foreign lady who visits for a few months each year, and spends her time there isolated from civilization. She must be pretty tough because, among other creatures, the place is infested with red ants.
We were unlucky enough to disturb a nest, and suddenly had dozens of them crawling into our hair and clothes, and biting like they meant it. We beat a hasty retreat back to the river to strip off and assess the damage.
We were going to have to find another way across the river further inland. Even without the ants, the jungle here was too impenetrable.
Further upstream the river widened, but we found a primitive mud jetty with a self-operated rope-raft. This was our chance to cross the river Indiana Jones style! Unlike me, you might want to try doing this with some form of foot protection to avoid the leeches.
The rope was predictably slimy, but we managed to stay mostly dry. On the other side of the river, the path was easy to spot, and thankfully was clear of undergrowth. We were now going to head up steeply into the mountain to locate a nice little spot for a picnic.
Not far up the path, we came across an area of rubber trees, already set up for latex-extraction. This is quite a big business in Malaysia, and evidently quite labor-intensive.
They cut grooves into the rubber trees, and attach small containers underneath to collect the latex. After a few days, they collect the congealed and spongy rubber extracts and take them off in baskets for processing.
The meandering path up into the mountain gradually narrowed and got steeper as we ascended. It wasn’t too difficult to follow as they was a water supply pipe running approximately in the same direction.
It’s a really pleasant walk, occasionally passing over small bridges across streams, through undergrowth and under fallen trees. All the time with the background hum of the jungle and distant chatter of monkeys.
After an hour or so, we were treated to a panoramic view back down the mountain towards the sea. We had brought with us a couple of liters of water each, as well as fruit for our lunch. We weren’t sure quite how far it was to the waterfall at the top.
Around half-way up we passed across a humming power station, but after this we began to hear sounds from the river somewhere to our right.
It took around 2 hours of uphill climbing to reach the waterfall. Beyond this point, the path disappeared, so we decided to quite while we were ahead. After a lunch of oranges and a cool dip in the water, it was time to head back down again.
It gets dark here quite early (and surprisingly suddenly), and we didn’t want to be still stuck up high on the trail when it did.
Coming down was a little quicker, but possibly more difficult due to the steepness of the trail. On the way back, we picked off a few cuttings from some of the plants, hoping they would survive the rest of the trip and the journey back home.
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