Beyond the Kilt 🏛️ Unpacking Edinburgh’s Charms (and Quirks)

Beyond the Kilt 🏛️ Unpacking Edinburgh’s Charms (and Quirks)

You’re still here? Excellent. Pull up a chair, make yourself comfortable, and let’s have a chinwag about Edinburgh. Not just the postcard version, mind you, but the real, gritty, utterly captivating Edinburgh that burrowed its way into our travel-worn hearts.

This city, the grand old dame of Scotland, isn’t just steeped in history; she practically is history, albeit with a modern, slightly dishevelled edge. Castles, museums, festivals, and landmarks – yes, we’ll get to all that. But what truly makes Edinburgh special is how she sneaks up on you. One minute you’re wandering down a cobbled street, convinced you’ve seen it all, and the next, you’re contemplating a hike up an extinct volcano, all before elevenses.

It’s full of surprises, this place, and we’ve got a few of our own to share.

We’ve traipsed across continents, poked our noses into more hidden corners than we care to admit, and yes, we’ve seen some truly stunning destinations.

But Edinburgh? She’s got a certain je ne sais quoi, a spark that sticks with you long after you’ve dusted the last of the shortbread crumbs from your travel bag. Perhaps it’s the ancient stones whispering tales of old, or the modern buzz of her thriving cultural scene. Whatever it is, she’s got it. And we’re here to spill the beans on how to navigate “Auld Reekie” like a seasoned pro, even if you’re just pretending.

Edinburgh is also home to some of the best festivals in the world, including the Edinburgh Festival Fringe and the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

 

Highlights

• Travel Tips for Edinburgh
• Accommodation: Where to Stay
• What to Do in Edinburgh
• Hiking and Day Trips from Edinburgh
• Free Activities in Edinburgh
• Where to Eat in Edinburgh
• Edinburgh Tram Timetables
• All Hotel Options in Edinburgh
• Book the Ibis Budget Hotel
• Best-Value Pubs & Restaurants

 

Edinburgh Essentials: Our highly scientific guide to not looking like a tourist (too much)

So, you’re planning a foray into Edinburgh. A wise choice. But before you leap headlong into the labyrinthine streets, a few pointers from us, who have made all the initial blunders so you don’t have to. We believe in learning from our mistakes, especially when they involve soggy shoes and missed opportunities.

• Book Your Billet Early: This isn’t just a suggestion; it’s a stern warning. Edinburgh, especially when the festivals descend like a swarm of very loud locusts in summer, becomes rather popular. We mean really popular. Accommodation in Edinburgh vanishes faster than a free dram of whisky. Get in there early, secure your spot, and spare yourself the indignity of sleeping in a bus shelter (unless that’s your preferred travel style, no judgment here).
• Embrace the Footwork: Forget your Ubers and taxis for a moment. Edinburgh is a city built for legs. Her top attractions are often a mere hop, skip, and a jump from each other. We found ourselves clocking up miles without even noticing, simply because there was always another intriguing alleyway or a charming little shop just around the corner. So, pack comfortable shoes. We cannot stress this enough. Those impractical fashion statements? Leave them at home, unless you fancy hobbling around like a character from a Victorian novel.
• Public Transport: Your (mostly) Reliable Steed: For those moments when your feet stage a rebellion, Edinburgh’s public transport system is surprisingly decent. Buses and trams crisscross the city, whisking you from one historical marvel to the next with minimal fuss. We found it a blessedly simple way to navigate further afield, especially when the skies opened up, as they often do with dramatic flair.
• The Oracle of Information: The Edinburgh Tourist Office is actually genuinely useful. We know, we know, tourist offices can sometimes feel like an exercise in polite obfuscation, but this one is a goldmine. Maps, advice, event listings – they’ve got it all. Go, ask questions, absorb the wisdom. It saves you from accidentally joining a nudist cycling tour when you meant to visit the castle.
• Lace Up for the Hills: Beyond the city’s stone heart, the countryside beckons. Edinburgh sits amidst some cracking scenery, offering numerous hiking trails. Need a break from the urban sprawl? Fancy stretching your legs and getting some lung-fulls of fresh, bracing air? We certainly did. It’s a proper escape, and the views are a more than ample reward for any exertion. Hiking in Edinburgh is a must-do for any active soul.
• Eat Your Way Through Scotland: This city boasts a thriving food scene, from traditional Scottish fare to international delights. We’ll delve deeper into the gastronomic adventures later, but trust us, your taste buds are in for a treat. From haggis (yes, really!) to Michelin-starred marvels, there’s something for every palate.
• The Weather Warning: And finally, a word to the wise: Edinburgh weather is, shall we say, a character in itself. Prepare for anything. Sunshine, rain, hail, four seasons in one hour – it’s all part of the charm. We advise layers. Always layers. And an umbrella, even if the sun is blazing when you step out. It’s a meteorological lottery, and Edinburgh always holds the winning ticket for sudden downpours.

Where to Rest Your Weary Head (and empty your wallet)

Now that we’ve dispensed with the crucial practicalities, let’s talk about where you’ll lay your head after a day of activities.

Edinburgh, bless her, understands that travellers come in all shapes, sizes, and budget categories. So, whether you’re accustomed to silk sheets and turndown service or a sturdy bunk bed and the faint aroma of instant noodles, she has a spot for you.

• Ibis Styles Edinburgh St Andrew Square: If you’re travelling with a gaggle of companions, or simply prefer a bit more space to sprawl, an apartment hotel is often the smart play. The Ibis Styles in St Andrew Square is smack-bang in the city’s pulsating heart. Modern rooms, free Wi-Fi and a location that practically shoves you out the door into a myriad of attractions. We found it perfectly adequate for central explorations.
• The Balmoral: For those with more discerning tastes (and a budget that permits), the Balmoral Hotel is the grand dame of luxury. It stands proudly in the New Town, offering views of the castle. Elegant rooms, a spa to melt away the day’s exertions, and a Michelin-starred restaurant for when you fancy being terribly fancy. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel like minor royalty, if only for a night.
• Ibis Budget Edinburgh: On the flip side, if your travel philosophy leans more towards “money saved on accommodation is money spent on whisky,” then the Ibis Budget steps up to the plate. Clean, comfortable, and crucially, affordable. It’s a no-frills option that gets the job done, leaving more pennies in your pocket for that extra dram or souvenir.
• Castle Rock Hostel: For the truly budget-conscious, or those seeking a more communal vibe, the Castle Rock hostel is a solid contender. Nestled practically in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle itself, it offers dorms and private rooms. The communal kitchen and lounge are perfect for swapping travel tales with fellow adventurers, or simply observing the fascinating tapestry of global backpackers. We’ve certainly seen worse in our time.
• Haymarket Hotel: Over in the rather trendy West End, the Haymarket hotel strikes a stylish pose. Modern rooms, an on-site restaurant and bar for those evenings when you can’t be bothered to venture far, and excellent access to the city’s many draws. It’s a good middle-ground option for those who appreciate a bit of flair without breaking the bank.
• JustB: If the quaint charm of a boutique bed and breakfast tickles your fancy, then JustB Edinburgh in the charming Stockbridge neighbourhood is worth a peek. Stylish rooms, a communal lounge that feels like a cosy living room, and a breakfast that genuinely sets you up for the day. It’s the sort of place that feels like a home away from home (if your home serves you breakfast!).
• B+B Edinburgh: For a unique B&B experience located within the architectural splendour of Edinburgh’s New Town, B+B Edinburgh offers a glimpse into Georgian elegance. We find these smaller, more personal establishments often offer a warmth that larger hotels simply cannot replicate.

Hotel Deals in Edinburgh

What to Do in Edinburgh: Our Carefully Curated List of Must-See Marvels

So, you’ve settled in. Excellent. What’s next? Edinburgh is practically bursting at the seams with things to do, enough to keep even the most jaded traveller entertained.

Whether you’re a history buff, a culture vulture, a foodie, or simply someone who appreciates a good stroll, she’s got something up her ancient sleeve.

Explore Edinburgh Castle, Where History Whispers From Every Stone

We begin, as one must, at the top. Perched majestically on Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle isn’t just a landmark; it’s a statement. This isn’t some crumbling ruin; it’s a living, breathing testament to centuries of Scottish history, dating back to the 12th century. We walked its ramparts, took in the sweeping views of the city, and immersed ourselves in the sheer weight of its past. It’s been a royal residence for aeons and now houses the National War Museum of Scotland.

Don’t miss the Scottish National War Memorial or the legendary Stone of Destiny, the ancient coronation stone that’s been involved in more coronations than we’ve had hot dinners. The queues can be a bit of a beast, so consider booking tickets online to save yourself some precious time. We always do.

Walk the Royal Mile & Old Town

Descending from the castle, you’re immediately plunged onto the Royal Mile, Edinburgh’s most famous artery.

This isn’t just a street; it’s a journey through time. Lined with historic buildings, souvenir shops (some genuinely charming, others… less so), and a fair few characters in kilts, it leads all the way down to Holyrood Palace. Along the way, you’ll encounter St. Giles’ Cathedral, the grand old church that’s been watching over Edinburgh for centuries.

But the real magic, we found, lies in the winding tendrils of the Old Town that snake off the main thoroughfare. We recommend getting lost down these narrow, medieval closes. You’ll stumble upon hidden courtyards, ancient kirks (like the 16th-century Canongate Kirk), and architectural gems that simply beg to be photographed.

Just try not to get too lost; breadcrumbs are always a good idea.

Visit Holyrood Palace: Scotland’s Royal Residence

At the very foot of the Royal Mile, a stately counterpoint to the castle, stands Holyrood Palace. This isn’t just a building; it’s practically a royal soap opera in stone. Home to Scottish monarchs for over 900 years, it’s dripping with history and tradition.

King David I founded it in the 12th century, and today, you can actually poke around inside. We certainly did.

Exploring the state apartments, admiring the antique furnishings, the stained-glass windows, the opulent chandeliers – it’s a grand step back in time. And for those with a morbid curiosity, it was the scene of various political upheavals and domestic controversies, including some rather dramatic incidents involving Mary, Queen of Scots. We felt like we were walking through the pages of a very dramatic history book.

The Ruined Abbey at Holyrood

Adjacent to the palace, the ruined abbey stands as a stark, beautiful reminder of time’s relentless march. Built in the 12th century, it’s a breathtaking example of Gothic architecture. We wandered through its skeletal remains, admiring the intricate stone carvings, and contemplating the lives that once bustled within its walls. It’s a surprisingly peaceful spot, despite the echoes of its tumultuous past.

Edinburgh’s Modern Pulse: From Georgian Grandeur to Contemporary Culture 🏙️

In stark contrast to the medieval maze of the Old Town, Edinburgh’s New Town is a masterpiece of Georgian planning. Developed in the 18th century, it’s a grid of elegant streets, grand buildings, and public squares designed to impress. Charlotte Square, with its symmetrical beauty, is considered one of Europe’s most handsome squares.

But the New Town isn’t just a pretty face; it’s a vibrant cultural hub, home to boutiques, restaurants, and a more cosmopolitan vibe. We enjoyed the architectural transition from the ancient to the grand.

Indoor Escapades: For when the weather has other ideas ☔

Let’s be honest, Edinburgh’s weather can be… temperamental. But fear not, this city is well-equipped for those moments when the heavens decide to open. We certainly spent our fair share of time dodging raindrops and seeking refuge in these cultural havens.

• National Museum of Scotland: A true treasure trove. The National Museum of Scotland offers a journey through Scotland’s history and culture, from ancient artefacts to scientific discoveries and contemporary art. We found ourselves utterly absorbed, particularly by the natural history exhibits. It’s a brilliant way to spend a soggy afternoon.
• The Queen’s Hall: For lovers of the performing arts, The Queen’s Hall is a popular spot for concerts and performances. We’ve seen some entertaining shows here, and it’s a far more intimate venue than some of the larger halls.
• Playhouse Theatre: If you’ve got teenagers in tow, or simply fancy a grand theatrical experience, the Playhouse Theatre is a fantastic option. With a seating capacity of 3,000, it’s the largest theatre in the UK, hosting everything from smash-hit musicals to gripping plays and stand-up comedy. You can find something for everyone in their diverse programme.
• The Writers’ Museum: For the literary inclined, the Writers’ Museum is a must-visit. It’s a charming, slightly quirky space dedicated to three of Scotland’s literary giants: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. We felt a genuine connection to their lives and works, wandering through the exhibits like literary detectives.

Family Fun: Keeping the Little Ones (and Big Kids) Amused 🦒

If you’re traveling with kids, or simply looking for a fun activity, be sure to visit Edinburgh Zoo. This world-class zoo is home to over 1,000 animals, including some of the world’s rarest and most endangered species.

The zoo is divided into several themed areas, including the Budongo Trail, which features a family of gorillas, and the Penguin Parade, which allows visitors to get up close and personal with a waddle of penguins. It’s a properly engaging day out.

Shop on Princess Street

For those who find solace in retail therapy, Princes Street is your Mecca. It’s one of Edinburgh’s most popular shopping destinations, offering a grand array of high-street brands (H&M, Zara, Topshop – you know the drill) and venerable department stores like Jenners, which has been a fixture for over 180 years.

Beyond the usual suspects, we found numerous specialty shops flogging Scottish souvenirs, tartan goods, and traditional gifts.

And the views! Shopping with Edinburgh Castle as your backdrop? That’s a unique experience, combining the thrill of the chase with the beauty of historic architecture. We tried, very hard, not to buy everything in sight.

We failed.

Relax in the Royal Botanic Garden 🌳

The Royal Botanic Garden is a peaceful oasis in the heart of Edinburgh, offering a stunning collection of plants from around the world. Whether you’re a gardening enthusiast or simply looking for a quiet place to relax, the garden is the perfect destination. The garden is divided into several themed areas, including the Rock Garden, which features a collection of alpine plants, and the Queen Mother Memorial Garden, which is dedicated to the late Queen Mother and features a beautiful collection of roses.

In addition to its beautiful gardens, the Royal Botanic Garden is also home to several greenhouses, including the Palm House, which is home to a collection of exotic palm trees, and the Princess of Wales Conservatory, which is home to a diverse collection of tropical and subtropical plants.

Night Owls Unite: Edinburgh After Dark 🌙

Experience the Best of Edinburgh’s Nightlife: As dusk descends, Edinburgh truly comes alive. We found no shortage of things to do after the sun dipped below the horizon. Whether you’re in the mood for live music, a perfectly poured pint in a traditional pub, or a good old knees-up, Edinburgh has you covered.

• Live Music Venues: The city boasts several world-class music venues. The Usher Hall is one of Scotland’s largest concert halls, hosting an impressive array of acts. For something more intimate, The Queen’s Hall (yes, the same one for classical performances) also puts on a cracking show. We stumbled into a folk music session in a tiny pub one evening and it was genuinely entertaining.
• Traditional Pubs on the Royal Mile: The Royal Mile pubs are practically an institution. We suggest a wander, a pint, and a good natter with the locals. The Royal Oak and the White Horse Inn are particularly atmospheric, often hosting live music and impromptu storytelling sessions. We found the banter to be top-notch.

Whisky Galore! A Dram Good Time 🥃

Now, we’re talking! Edinburgh and Scottish whisky are practically synonymous. With over 120 distilleries producing an astonishing range of single malts and blends, each with its own distinct personality, you’d be remiss not to delve into this amber nectar.

One of the finest ways to immerse yourself is at the Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile. It’s not just a tasting; it’s a graphic journey through the whisky-making process. We learned about the ingredients, the distillation, and the various barrels used for maturation.

The highlight, naturally, is the tasting.

With a collection of over 3,000 bottles, including some exceedingly rare ones, the knowledgeable staff guide you through a flight of whiskies, highlighting the subtle notes and aromas. We walked out feeling significantly more educated (and perhaps a tad warmer).

Book Your Whisky Experience

For a more bespoke whisky experience, we wholeheartedly recommend The Devil’s Advocate. This popular whisky bar offers personalised tastings. You can select from a mind-boggling range of rare and exclusive whiskies, and the staff are incredibly passionate, guiding you through the tasting notes like seasoned connoisseurs. We spent a thoroughly enjoyable evening here, discovering new favourites.

If you fancy venturing out, Glenkinchie Distillery, just a short drive from the city, offers guided tours. You can learn about the history of the brand and witness the whisky-making process first-hand. The tour concludes, as all good things should, with a tasting of their finest whiskies.

It’s a proper pilgrimage for any whisky enthusiast.

The Macabre & Mysterious: Graveyards and Ghostly Walks 👻

For those with a penchant for the eerie and the historical, exploring Edinburgh’s graveyards or taking a guided gravewalk is a uniquely fascinating experience.

These tours are not just about spooky tales; they offer a profound glimpse into Scotland’s rich cultural and historical heritage, revealing the stories behind some of the city’s most important graves.

We found Old Calton Cemetery particularly intriguing. It’s considered one of Scotland’s most significant graveyards, the final resting place of notable Scots like philosopher David Hume and economist Adam Smith. The sheer weight of intellectual and historical figures buried here is quite something.

Then there’s Greyfriars Kirkyard, resting in the heart of the Old Town. It’s famous for its connections to the Covenanters, a group of Scottish Presbyterians who played a pivotal role in the country’s religious and political history. And, of course, the enduring legend of Greyfriars Bobby, a beloved Scottish terrier who is remembered for his loyalty to his owner.

The nocturnal gravewalks are led by incredibly knowledgeable local guides who truly bring the city’s past to life. We were captivated by the tales of the people who shaped Edinburgh over the centuries. It’s a unique and genuinely chilling way (in the best possible sense) to connect with the city’s darker history.

Festivals and Fun: A City That Knows How to Party 🎉

If you happen to be in Edinburgh in August, you’re in for a treat (and a crowd).

The Edinburgh Festival is a world-renowned arts and cultural behemoth, featuring hundreds of performances across music, theatre, and dance. It’s an electrifying atmosphere, a truly unique experience. You’re sure to find yourself swept up in the creative chaos.

Culinary Adventures (…beyond the Haggis 🍣)

Who would have thunk it? Edinburgh boasts some genuinely excellent sushi restaurants.

And for those who like to get their hands dirty (literally), you can even learn to make your own sushi at one of the city’s many sushi making classes. We gave it a go, and while our creations were certainly… rustic, they didn’t taste bad at all!

Day Trips & Hikes: Escaping the City (temporarily) ⛰️

Edinburgh is a brilliant launchpad for exploring the wider Scottish landscape. We found ourselves itching for some wilder scenery after a few days of urban exploration, and Scotland delivered.

The Pentland Hills are a popular destination for hikers, offering a variety of routes for all levels. The views over Edinburgh and the surrounding countryside are absolutely cracking. We found it a refreshing change of pace, a true escape into nature.

For the truly ambitious, the John Muir Way stretches over 134 miles from Helensburgh to Dunbar, passing right through Edinburgh. We only tackled a small section, but even that offered spectacular views of the coast and countryside. It’s a proper Scottish adventure … for those with stamina 😵.

Blackness Castle – A Fortification on the Shores of Scotland

Just a short drive from Edinburgh, on the shores of the Firth of Forth, lies Blackness Castle. This isn’t just any old castle; it’s a stunning fortification with a proper dramatic history.

Built in the 15th century as a military base and royal fortress, it’s been lovingly restored and is open for tours. Its unique, ship-like shape (earning it the nickname “the ship that never sailed”) is genuinely impressive, as are its incredibly thick walls. We climbed to the top of its towers and took in the breathtaking views of the Firth of Forth.

And if you’re a fan of historical dramas, you might recognise it – it’s been a popular film set, appearing in several productions including the popular television series Outlander. The castle’s dramatic and historical setting makes it an ideal location for filming.

This is a beautiful, peaceful place to spend a few hours, strolling along the shoreline, breathing in all that fresh sea air.

Free Edinburgh: Penny-Pinching Pleasures (because we all love a bargain) 💰

Yes, even in a city as grand as Edinburgh, there are plenty of wallet-friendly activities to be had. We appreciate a freebie as much as the next person, especially after indulging in all that whisky.

• National Gallery of Scotland & Scottish National Portrait Gallery: Both are free to enter and offer extensive collections of art, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Monet, and Van Gogh. We spent a happy few hours wandering through these artistic havens, soaking up the culture without spending a single penny. It’s an excellent way to escape the rain, too.
• Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat: Need to escape the city without leaving it? Holyrood Park is your answer. This sprawling 640-acre park is home to Arthur’s Seat, a dormant volcano that stands as the highest point in Edinburgh. We tackled the climb, and while it certainly got the heart pumping, the panoramic views of the city, the coast, and the surrounding countryside were absolutely worth the effort. It’s an iconic Edinburgh viewpoint.
• Free Walking Tours: Edinburgh boasts numerous free walking tours that delve into the city’s rich history and culture. Led by knowledgeable guides, they’re a brilliant way to get your bearings and uncover hidden gems. These tours offer a fantastic introduction to a new city, and the guides are often full of local anecdotes. A tip at the end is customary, of course.
• Portobello Beach: Weather permitting (!) Portobello Beach, just a short distance from the city centre, is a popular spot for a stroll along the promenade, a bit of sunbathing, or even a bracing swim if you’re feeling particularly hardy 😱

Where to Eat: A Culinary Compass 🍽️

Edinburgh’s food scene is as vibrant and diverse as its history. We’ve eaten our way through a fair few establishments, from hearty pub grub to sophisticated fine dining, but here are a few spots that tickled our fancy.

• Burger Edinburgh: If a good burger is what your heart desires, then Burger Edinburgh delivers. We found their burgers, made with locally sourced ingredients, to be genuinely delicious. A solid choice for a satisfying, no-fuss meal.
• The Witchery by the Castle: For something a bit more upscale, for when you fancy being rather grand, The Witchery by the Castle is an institution. Located in a historic building near the castle, it serves up Scottish cuisine with a touch of theatrical flair. We found the atmosphere utterly enchanting and the food truly memorable. It’s a proper treat.
• JustB Edinburgh: For a sweet treat, or when you just need a sugar hit to power through another museum, the cupcakes at JustB Edinburgh are a sheer delight. We confess, we may have indulged in more than one.
• Kanpai Sushi: For the sushi aficionados, Kanpai Sushi Edinburgh is a must-visit. This Japanese restaurant offers a wide selection of sushi and other dishes, and we found it to be a favourite among both locals and tourists. It’s a proper taste of Japan in the heart of Scotland.
• The Edinburgh Palace: For a truly upscale dining experience with a view that will make your jaw drop, The Edinburgh Palace restaurant, located within the iconic Edinburgh Castle itself, is a top pick. We mean, dining inside the castle? With stunning views of the city twinkling below? It’s an experience, not just a meal.

For a deeper dive into the city’s culinary landscape, we actually put together a companion piece: “Best-Value Pubs & Restaurants in Edinburgh” Because, let’s be honest, we all appreciate a good meal that doesn’t require selling a kidney.

Best-Value Pubs & Restaurants

Edinburgh Unfiltered: Our Take on Scotland’s Capital

So, there you have it. Our unabashedly honest, highly biased, and thoroughly immersive guide to Edinburgh. This glorious, historical, wonderfully diverse Scottish capital, truly has something for everyone. From its ancient stones whispering tales of kings and queens to its buzzing modern cultural scene, from breathtaking scenery to comforting pubs, it’s a destination that demands exploration.

We’ve explored her landmarks, indulged in her culinary delights, and soaked up her atmosphere. We’ve endured her capricious weather and celebrated her unexpected charms. And honestly, she’s left a rather indelible mark on us. So, go on then, plan your own trip to Edinburgh. Go discover the best of this amazing city for yourself. We promise you won’t regret it. You might even find yourself falling a little bit in love, just like we did.

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